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waldo kent Profile
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Re: Waldo's Build


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Now that it is sanded and primed we can put it in some direct sunlight and look for imperfections to sand and smoothe out. It's not tood bad right now.

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Jeffrey Kent
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7/2/2011, 4:12 pm Link to this post Send Email to waldo kent   Send PM to waldo kent Blog
 
matthew007 Profile
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Re: Waldo's Build


Done a real good job there,I had my right calf extended it wouldn't fit around my calf it was way to small.it took a while but well worth it.
7/2/2011, 4:38 pm Link to this post Send Email to matthew007   Send PM to matthew007
 
stukatrooper Profile
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Re: Waldo's Build


Nice work there WK Thats one mile stone out of the way.I to have to make the right calf bigger,the left fits great.
7/2/2011, 5:15 pm Link to this post Send Email to stukatrooper   Send PM to stukatrooper Blog
 
waldo kent Profile
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Re: Waldo's Build


Each finger is very well made but each finger is one piece and does not allow you to bend your fingers. This I think is a great mod and should be done before sending it off for surfacing.
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Use a pencil to mark your cut at the upper joint on each finger. Use a Dremmel cutting wheel and cut each finger . I chose NOT to cut the thumbs. Personally, the thumb on my left hand was pinned due to an accident and I can't move it anyway.

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Be sure to sand each cut carefully and prime. I slightly rounded the edges and put several coats of primer on the edges.

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I sprayed an extra coat of primer on each finger and sanded with a 320 grit sponge. As you sand look for any pitts or imprefections and fill/sand.

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Jeffrey Kent
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7/24/2011, 1:49 pm Link to this post Send Email to waldo kent   Send PM to waldo kent Blog
 
waldo kent Profile
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Re: Waldo's Build


Well after waiting 4 months for my parts I'm back to work. Though I wanted to use a fiberglass helmet I really found no assurance from any of the makers if the helmet would fit someone with a head 23 inches around. So, I decided to go with a vacuform helmet I got from MonCal. With Vacuform, a lot of the details are lost.
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As you can see all of the edges are soft and some detal like above the lip are completely gone.
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Using Milput Superfine White (Hobby Lobby) putty. I lightly sanded the areas I was repairing just so the Milput would stick better. Using some scupting tools and some water, I sharpened up the edges. After sitting over night I sanded everything down. Once sanded I used spot putty to fill in any cracks or pits, then sanded the areas again.
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The detail to the upper lip is completely gone. What is there is just a bump which we will remove. I made a pencil mark as reference for cutting it away.
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This is what the detail should look like.
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Using a dremel I sanded the bump down. Using a higher grain of sandpaper I smoothed it down.
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Next, place a popsicle stick in the mouth and trace curve of the mouth using a pencil. Use a dremel to cut he curve. Glue the stick in place then sand it down. With mine I will most likely increase the opening of the upper most part of the mouth.
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Jeffrey Kent
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11/7/2011, 5:32 pm Link to this post Send Email to waldo kent   Send PM to waldo kent Blog
 
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Re: Waldo's Build


I did not make the progress I was hoping to this weekend however I did solve one problem and managed to at least get started on the shorts.
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They Brass eyes I received from MC are awesome. When installed in the helmet, the edges on the rear of each eye dug into my eyesockets.
One solution was to remove the light panels and bulbs and grind the edges down. They come out very easy.

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The front of the helmet at the top uses an electrical connector that the head antenna goes through and is screwed into the back of the helmet.
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By adding a few washers behind the connector, it provides a llttle more space inside the helmet. Problem solved.

As for the shorts I have found no clear example of how one is supposed to put these together. So we'll just have to wing it. First I would suggest you have your legs completed first before you start cutting and fitting your shorts. Remember they must fit inside the thighs as well as your waist.
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The ABS shorts are also from MonCal. The advantage is the ABS allows for a liitle more flex than the fiberglass shorts. The dissadvantege is the sharp defintions and details are lost. For a rough trim I used a dremmel and cleaned up the edges with a sanding block.

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For the very top I left as much as I could and still "barely" fit into the shorts. I will use an iron and round these edges later. That will give us more room around the waist.

Starting at the top I lined the two halves together, edge on edge. I used c-clamps then duct tape. At the bottom I overlaped the front half over the back half. At the bottom for the OUTER SEAM ONLY I measured one inch edge to edge, c-clamped and taped it up. (The top edges are together and the bottom overlap)
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Once together I taped up the seams inside and out just for fitting. My waist is 30 and it was a tight fit to get on once I past my hips. All seamed well once I got the legs on. The shorts come with extra long legs and we we cut them shorter once I'm sure they are working well. One thing I noticed is it is a tight fit and getting the bunjee cords connected was pretty rough. Iam rethinking the way I will use the bujee cords now.

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Note the unattached sections near the crotch. I most likely will leave these loose. They are quite thin because of the vacuform process and I will reinforce them later. But when the legs are worn these sections overlap and allow the legs of the shorts to taper and spread a bit.

That's it for now!

Last edited by waldo kent, 11/13/2011, 9:54 pm


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Jeffrey Kent
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11/13/2011, 9:47 pm Link to this post Send Email to waldo kent   Send PM to waldo kent Blog
 
waldo kent Profile
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Re: Waldo's Build


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To show an example using Milliput we are going to fix the hole that was caused by sanding down the bump under the lower lip.
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I am using Milliput Superfine White. It is a 2 part epoxy putty used for scupting. It runs about $14 at Hobby Lobby or most Hobby shops. For this project I have been using just a liitle bit at a time. I cut about a 1/4 inch off of each roll, mix it in my fingers for about 6 minutes and adding water to my finger tips to keep from sticking. Working time is about an hour. (Read Instructions Carefully)
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Rolling a small portion in a tube, place it inside the helmet under the lower lip. Wet a spatula and smash down the edge. Work the putty into the hole and smooth it out on the front of the helmet. Use a wet sponge to smooth it down.

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Now lets replace the roof of the mouth lost due to making the opening a little bigger. Let the Milliput set over night and then sand. To learn more about Milliput visit the website http://milliput.com/home.htm

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Jeffrey Kent
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11/16/2011, 6:53 pm Link to this post Send Email to waldo kent   Send PM to waldo kent Blog
 
matthew007 Profile
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Re: Waldo's Build


This is great info,just got to get some brass eyes if possible
11/18/2011, 12:08 pm Link to this post Send Email to matthew007   Send PM to matthew007
 
littledragon88 Profile
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Re: Waldo's Build


Wow, great solution for the antenna!! emoticon If I only saw this a few days ago..I think I might have to redo mine now.

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http://lotinlife.wordpress.com
11/21/2011, 5:59 pm Link to this post Send Email to littledragon88   Send PM to littledragon88 Blog
 
waldo kent Profile
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Re: Waldo's Build


I felt that the detail of the rear of the helmet was just as poor as the front. The "pie shaped" wedges molded into the helmet were had very soft edges and just did not look good so I grinded them down and removed them.

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I cut out a 3 inch circle from a sheet of styrene and glued the resin piece in place. I then cut and shaped the wedges from "door shims". You could use a paint stick as well. Glue these in place.

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Glue to the back of the head.

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Using milliput, fill in the areas that are needed. and soften the edges.

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It is hard to see any imperfections so I lightly painted the face with primer. Using a light at an angle you can see where to fill and sand.



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Jeffrey Kent
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11/28/2011, 3:00 pm Link to this post Send Email to waldo kent   Send PM to waldo kent Blog
 


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