R2Dan
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Re: Waldo's Build
nice mods. The part above the mouth however is more of a scribed feature, not a raised detail as you have it now.
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11/29/2011, 10:03 am
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waldo kent
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Re: Waldo's Build
I've been battling this for some time but my first thought was not to scribe into the plastic. The wood still needs to be sanded thinner and I think the whole thing needs to go flush with the upper opening. I will use some putty to raise the surface then scrib the edges. I just keep putting it off because I know it will be a "drag".
The Best reference photos I've seen of the mouth detail come from the Smithsonian. Note the three scribed lines on the upper lip. Not going to be easy. The wood is there to provide a straight edge. If it doesn't work out I'll try something else.
Here are the links to these photos. when blown up they provide great detail.
http://mr-tea.com/c3pogallery/index.php?dir=/exhibits/Smithsonian
Last edited by waldo kent, 11/29/2011, 3:56 pm
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Jeffrey Kent
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11/29/2011, 3:53 pm
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littledragon88
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Re: Waldo's Build
Hm, what I did, was to sculpt the basic shape of the upper lip and bottom lip with Milliput. I then primed it and sanded it down to the final shape, for then to use a Dremel and the finest engraving tool to carve these lines out. The result is pretty much the same as the fiberglass version I got, and I can really recommend this technique. It is important to draw a few pencil lines to help keep the craved lines straight though.
I still have to prime my head, but I can try to upload some pictures of my almost finished head tonight.
Last edited by littledragon88, 11/30/2011, 10:57 am
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11/30/2011, 6:46 am
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waldo kent
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Re: Waldo's Build
Pictures would be great. Post them here on this thread if you'd like. Thanks for the imput.
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Jeffrey Kent
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11/30/2011, 11:59 am
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waldo kent
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Re: Waldo's Build
After the Milliput cured and was sanded it was time to get the back of the head back into shape.
Here are the steps I took to get to this point:
1) Filled with milliput and sand using 60 and 220 grit sponges.
2) Before priming I chose to seal the wood wedges with epoxy thinned with some alcohol, let it dry and sanded lightly with 320 grit. 3) Filled with glazing putty and sanded with 220 and 320 grit sponges
4) Primed back of helmet, sanded with 320 grit then filled where need with glazing putty again.
5) Sanded glazing putty and reprime.
Basically repeat the process until you are happy with it. I will prime and sand one more time and go with a higher grit. Some of the hard to get places can be reached better with folded sand paper. Try not to glaze those hard to reach places if you can help it. It's hard to sand small spaces in the disk.
ONE thing I did not want to do was scribe into the plastic for fear I would mess it up. The plastic helmet is fairly thin. Originally I glued a piece of wood for the upper lip. I felt it was again too high. I removed it and took my chance on creating it with Milliput and flushed it up to the upper mouth. I let it dry then sanded.
The space between the upper lip and nose was then roughed up with sandpaper. A thin layer of Milliput was used then once smoothed I used a sculpting tool to create the scribing line. Pushing the tool up against the edge of the first piece proved to make a pretty straight line. Once dry, I'll sand and clean it up.
Last edited by waldo kent, 12/6/2011, 2:22 am
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Jeffrey Kent
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12/6/2011, 1:42 am
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littledragon88
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Re: Waldo's Build
Nice progress! Can't wait to see your finished result of that back panel, looks great so far.
How's your cat enjoying your build? 
Last edited by littledragon88, 12/19/2011, 12:01 pm
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12/19/2011, 7:58 am
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cymico
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Re: Waldo's Build
I throught same thing lol
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12/19/2011, 8:57 am
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