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Re: Waldo's Build


nice mods. The part above the mouth however is more of a scribed feature, not a raised detail as you have it now.
11/29/2011, 10:03 am Link to this post Send Email to R2Dan   Send PM to R2Dan
 
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Re: Waldo's Build


I've been battling this for some time but my first thought was not to scribe into the plastic. The wood still needs to be sanded thinner and I think the whole thing needs to go flush with the upper opening. I will use some putty to raise the surface then scrib the edges. I just keep putting it off because I know it will be a "drag".
Image

The Best reference photos I've seen of the mouth detail come from the Smithsonian. Note the three scribed lines on the upper lip. Not going to be easy. The wood is there to provide a straight edge. If it doesn't work out I'll try something else.

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Here are the links to these photos. when blown up they provide great detail.
http://mr-tea.com/c3pogallery/index.php?dir=/exhibits/Smithsonian

Last edited by waldo kent, 11/29/2011, 3:56 pm


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11/29/2011, 3:53 pm Link to this post Send Email to waldo kent   Send PM to waldo kent Blog
 
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Re: Waldo's Build


Hm, what I did, was to sculpt the basic shape of the upper lip and bottom lip with Milliput. I then primed it and sanded it down to the final shape, for then to use a Dremel and the finest engraving tool to carve these lines out. The result is pretty much the same as the fiberglass version I got, and I can really recommend this technique. It is important to draw a few pencil lines to help keep the craved lines straight though.

I still have to prime my head, but I can try to upload some pictures of my almost finished head tonight.

Last edited by littledragon88, 11/30/2011, 10:57 am


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11/30/2011, 6:46 am Link to this post Send Email to littledragon88   Send PM to littledragon88 Blog
 
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Re: Waldo's Build


Pictures would be great. Post them here on this thread if you'd like. Thanks for the imput.

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11/30/2011, 11:59 am Link to this post Send Email to waldo kent   Send PM to waldo kent Blog
 
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Re: Waldo's Build


Here are the pictures:
Image

Image

Image

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11/30/2011, 7:01 pm Link to this post Send Email to littledragon88   Send PM to littledragon88 Blog
 
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Re: Waldo's Build


After the Milliput cured and was sanded it was time to get the back of the head back into shape.

Image

Here are the steps I took to get to this point:
1) Filled with milliput and sand using 60 and 220 grit sponges.
2) Before priming I chose to seal the wood wedges with epoxy thinned with some alcohol, let it dry and sanded lightly with 320 grit. 3) Filled with glazing putty and sanded with 220 and 320 grit sponges
4) Primed back of helmet, sanded with 320 grit then filled where need with glazing putty again.
5) Sanded glazing putty and reprime.

Basically repeat the process until you are happy with it. I will prime and sand one more time and go with a higher grit. Some of the hard to get places can be reached better with folded sand paper. Try not to glaze those hard to reach places if you can help it. It's hard to sand small spaces in the disk.

ONE thing I did not want to do was scribe into the plastic for fear I would mess it up. The plastic helmet is fairly thin. Originally I glued a piece of wood for the upper lip. I felt it was again too high. I removed it and took my chance on creating it with Milliput and flushed it up to the upper mouth. I let it dry then sanded.

Image

The space between the upper lip and nose was then roughed up with sandpaper. A thin layer of Milliput was used then once smoothed I used a sculpting tool to create the scribing line. Pushing the tool up against the edge of the first piece proved to make a pretty straight line. Once dry, I'll sand and clean it up.

Last edited by waldo kent, 12/6/2011, 2:22 am


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12/6/2011, 1:42 am Link to this post Send Email to waldo kent   Send PM to waldo kent Blog
 
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Re: Waldo's Build


IN SHORT.....once I got the shorts taped up and test fitted them. I ran a pencil line on the outside of the shorts as well as the inside. This will act as a guide for glueing.

Rough up the areas you are gluing with sand paper on both sides. I used ABS glue on both sides and then clamped the two halves using two 1x2s and C-clamps.

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I recommend you have someone to assist you with this. You must work fast because the glue cures quickly. It's also easier to do one side at a time.

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I added a block of wood to the recessed section of the waist and glued it in place using Gorrila Glue.

Image

I had a difficult time lining this side up. It just did not match so I added a piece of sheet plastic to hold the edges in place.

Image

Here's a look at the outside of the shorts which I plan on fiberglassing later.

Image

Using a broomstick and a sheet of wax paper to prevent sticking, let your shorts ride the broom.

Image

Because of the depth of the crotch thinning of the plastic in that area happens when the shorts are vacuformed. Sign plastic may be used on the inside of the leg but the crotch needs reinforcing as well. So I'll add to strips of fiberglass cloth. The photo shows that I added 2 sticks to spread the inside of the legs apart. This will help you work easier. You canalso see by the photo where the plastic is thin.

Image

I used 2 strips of fibergass just to thicken up the crotch area and inside legs. Once dry I'll sand, trim and add bondo to make it smoother.



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12/6/2011, 10:04 pm Link to this post Send Email to waldo kent   Send PM to waldo kent Blog
 
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Re: Waldo's Build


Image
As for the helmet, I sprayed my last coat of primer and now to wet sand. the extra work was worth it.
Image
I'm pretty happy with the results of the mouth as well. So the helmet is pretty much done.
 
Image
 
With a heat gun I carefully rounded off the top edge of the shorts using my hand wearing gloves of course. The trick is to heat up a small section for about 5 seconds, test to see if it moves, if not give it another 5 secs until the plastic starts to soften up. Hold it in place until it cools or spray it with some water. Do small sections untill your finished. You can also use a iron for heating up MonoKote on RC airplanes. Use a sock.
 
Image
Here is the result.
 
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YOU DON"T HAVE TO DO THIS-Using a cutting wheel, I chose to cut the back panel out, so that I can install electronics and someone can access them when the suit is worn. It will be re-attached using earth magnets.
 
Image
 
Sand the edges on the cuts and smooth. Using sign material or sheet plastic glue the plastic to the edge of the opening. We will later cut an opening and create an inside edge. Be back later with more.

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12/19/2011, 12:27 am Link to this post Send Email to waldo kent   Send PM to waldo kent Blog
 
littledragon88 Profile
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Re: Waldo's Build


Nice progress! Can't wait to see your finished result of that back panel, looks great so far.

How's your cat enjoying your build? emoticon

Last edited by littledragon88, 12/19/2011, 12:01 pm


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12/19/2011, 7:58 am Link to this post Send Email to littledragon88   Send PM to littledragon88 Blog
 
cymico Profile
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Re: Waldo's Build


I throught same thing lol

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12/19/2011, 8:57 am Link to this post Send Email to cymico   Send PM to cymico Blog
 


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